Mmm, fish bits

Healed by the holy springs, refreshed by the atmosphere, and our spirits lifted by wine of that which is called Sighnaghi.

A tiny town teetering atop a hill, overlooking a vast sea of vineyards and pastures far below and bypassing the horizon. We stayed for two nights, walking the winding cobblestone streets, napping in hammocks, and visiting monasteries to soak in their holy springs. The town itself lulled you into a content state of relaxation, of which we soaked up.

 

After narrowly escaping the town that shall not be named, we sought respite in this adorable town's one and only hostel. Turns out awhile back an American man, while experiencing a mid-life crisis decided to purchase a house in this remote part of Georgia. Unfortunately, war broke out shortly after, so what does any good father do? Send his son and daughter to check it out and open a hostel. This is how we came to meet Andy. He and his Lithuanian girlfriend Inga, both 26, run this hostel and while it may lack general cleanliness was overflowing with character and characters. Andy was kind enough to even take us along while he bought the hostel's supply of wine from a local man (delivered in a 5-liter plastic jug), straight from his cellar. In this cellar this kind and excitable Georgian man also offered a taste of his very own “Cha Cha,” more commonly known as moonshine.

Feeling refreshed and ready to conquer we set off to Lagodekhi National Park for a couple days of hiking and camping. Upon entering the park gates, we were immediately taken under the care of an enthusiastic Georgian park ranger who, after learning we were American, informed us that their park had an American of their own working there and promptly ran off to present him to us. Turns out he, Shannon, is a Peace Corps volunteer working in the community and park. Shannon then introduced us to the “Trail Master,” Daniel, a swiss man in his early twenties. It would be impossible to do these two justice using only the written word, but to try, they are exceedingly kind, sincere and easy going. Shannon, tall dark and handsome, Daniel smaller in stature and adorable, capped off with a mop top of blonde curls.

The first day we hiked to a smaller waterfall and camped out in the park. The second day we teamed up with Shannon, Daniel, and an older German gentleman named Hogel who drove us out to the trailhead for an even taller waterfall (aprox. 40 meters high). We climbed up to the very top, which was more of a ladder made of roots than a trail, leading us directly upward, where a series of pools waited for our wadding pleasure.

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On the way back we passed a small Trout farm, so with no hesitation Hogel, our ever jolly German, proclaimed that we would have a fish party and it was so. We headed back to our campsite, cleaned , gutted, and stuffed the fish with delicious goodness while the park rangers built a giant fire. A perfect example of Georgian hospitality, the park rangers even took over the cooking of the fish while I took over as official supervisor. We ate, drank homemade wine, listened to stories and laughed until late in the night when Shannon offered to let us sleep in his host family's backyard. So, in true hobo fashion and to save roughly, 5 dollars each, we rolled our sleeping bags out in the yard. Feeling refreshed from a night under the stars and recharged from Shannon's American coffee, once again Hogel came to our aid. Picking us up and driving us to the border where we once again simply walked out of Georgia and into Azerbaijan. I could hear Katie laughing all the way back at border control as my giddiness overpowered maturity, leading me to mimic riding a horse, lasso above the head, yelling “I'm Genghis Khan,” when asked by border guards what brought us to central Asia.